28.4. – I am building a tent at 7 000 m. It is lower than planned, but it is better to be carfull. The view of the next morning, when I see tents torn appart and the giant ice ring, I am happy for my choice. But I was not completly genial-I built the tent with the entrance pointing to the side the wind is comming from, so I have to sleep with all the holes closed, othervise I would sleep coverd in a snow. So I dont sleep at all, fearing of choking myself.

The Russians are bout one hundred meters from me. They plan to go up aroud 2am. They clame the way is not fixed and dangerous. And that one Itallian guy died there today and it may not be even possiblle to get there, becauce the ropes are bad. I got one from the Iranians. Mahdi came back with the dusk, the last one out of 20 people, but he did reach the top! Before he came back, one could hear loud prayers comming from the tent. And they were heard.:-)

Dreamless night-Even with the help of the sleeping pill. I changed the alarm clock from 12:05 to 12:15 to 12:30 but I didnt sleep anyway. The boots on, I cook, drink and eat. I také termos, water in a PET-which is going to turn into ice within few hours, few Enervit gels, pills, bar, camera video camera, glasses. All I need to do now is to leave the tent….not that easy. The storm is playing with the tent. At 3am am am leaving. And I am the only one to go up this night.