21.4.2009 – CIII 6 900 m. We have had a terrible night last year in a same heigh on Dhaulagiri. But this time I was on my own. I had problem to stick one of sticks that hold the tent into the ice. There were just too much ice. The wind was so strong i was affraid the it would send me down. And it was turbiny, so I couldnt leave single hole open. The speep didnt come, and time to time i had to open the tent, becouse I was scared all the air was gone-and that ment the tent full of snow. Thats when I realised the things went bad. At 4am the snow broke inside, and filled most of the tent, the whorst think was-it blocked the exit, I couldnt get out! I held the tent with my body and prayed for the sun to come. Around 6am I have realised the sun was not gong to happen, so I started to cry for help, in russian and in english.
Luckyly some guy from Grusia have herd me and came to digg me out. When I have sneaked out I saw a mess- just two tents standing out of six! I took what I could from the tent, but most o fit was covered in snow. Luckyly I got my sloves. I needed my oranže glasses, becouse of the fog. I found them amd had to change the glass, it was dark in it-my hands were shakinh, becouse the tent was filling with snow. I got out the last momentr possible, like in some bad movie. I give up saving the tent-its just a thing, there is much more to loose. No slep, no food, no drink-all of this I feel. I rest every 15th step. I am crossing my limits, like yesterday. But further. The tento f French is torn appart, but I dont have the strenth to search fot them. Fortunatelly they wellcome me in the CII!They bulit the tent yesterday, and came bask to CII. We meet the Russians as well-they have slept at 7200m. My heands are frozen. A guy from Iran is giving me his sloves, the other on eis unzipping his jacket, so I can warm up my heands on his chest. Sill I am not able to get my heands into the sloves- A guy from Korea brings hot tea to warm up my fingers even more.
Why cant we manager on our own, why do we need those stupid fat idiome in a gouvernement to tell us what is good for us? Why are they telling us that we are enemies? We are friends! This expedition, I got help from Russians, Spanish, Americans, Koreans…all for free. I will come home, and I will be told we are enemies. What the fuck is this?
There is thirty of us in the CII. All of us sitting down, Staring in a snow, every one his own story in his head. But one thought we have in common-how to get down safely? Theoryes about safey are useless, so we are simply leaving, But what matters is the end-and we all got down, all of us. We are warming up, dribling, cooking.
To get to the BC is the easiest part.
Now i feel I am ready for the top. All I need is right weather. We will see….
Radek
