19.4. 2009 The weather is grat, despote the new snow. And according to the predictions, there is gong to be some wind. But this is nat a hollyday, so I am gong to CI, Which is safe practically in any weather. Well, There are some steps in the snow, that end with broken ice, but I guess the one has been taught his lesson and came back safely. In CI there is suprise waiting. Only 30cm of my ten tis vissible. So it did snow. The way took me 3,5hr, but digging the tent another 2,5hours. Those things simply happen. In the morning I develope my natref for small tents. For next epedition, I am looping for digger tents. You sit there, deppressed, your shoulders are touching the walls, and the snow is falling into your clothes. And becouse of the snow I have removed, sun shines here with 2 hours delay. Thats why I leave as a last one…
The way is quite dangerous, becouse of the cracks. but the main problem now is a huge amount of snow and the associated risk of avalanches. This is Chat have stopped the last czech expedition. The Langer is digger, if there are too many people together. The russians tried yesterday, but came back. When the weather is figur, everyone does his best to go up. I tis getting Clar, who is here to limbe, and who is here just to reach the top. It makes me angry sometimes, the other times it makes me laught. But the mountains Belong to everyone, and its up to everyone to do it his way. But its strange to see this russian mashine an its „heroes“ with a lounch in thein bag and the sherpas who do all the work for them. I am getting in front of them-its easy, its fun. And I am affraid to stay under so many people. I am making the way together with russians. Some of them dont know me, so they dont understand why am I actually working. And there is a plenty of work to do. The snow is reaching my chest. We have to také dowt the bag, and the ozhers are passing it over. We have reached the CII. The boss of Russians came to me and thanked for the cooperation. This is the first time ever I appreciate Russians thanks.
20.4.2009. The ten tis digger, but the temperature is -21°C. The cold cames from all places. I was fool to cover my legs in my jachet-its like putting a fridge into a sleeping bag. But I am too tirád to do anything. Not much slep. I am awaken by the sun and by someone throwing-up near by. Most people ase descending, they didnt make it. I am asking the Russians to také me to CIII, they agree happily. I pack the tent and kamera canon G10.
You can guess your rank by the way the snow is breaking under you. Every 5. is ok. The others are working hard. Like in the hell. As the body is tetiny uded to the height. Like 4 of us are working, 20 under us are just having hollyday.
The problem starts with great hole in the ice. It looks dangerous, and we are wondering which way to go. They choose the more dangerous and easier way. I decide to go with them. But I dont agrese with them, it does look dangerous. I am asking the guy if he has ever experienced a landslide. He says yes, on the way to CI. So here I see its creator! But Chat has felt there was no big deal-50-100m, Chat we see here is like 800! I have my experiences, so I choose to go the safe way. My eyes are falling of as I see them gong the most dangerous way. I height about 7 200 m i see a tent, so I hope there špunt be any wind there.
My hope was not fullfiled. I descend about 100m for some place I believe is fine, but I am wrong again. I descende even more, 250m according to my watches, but i am not sorry, It would be hell to bould a ten tup there. But I dont know what the night will bring.
