Expedition 2010
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RADEK JAROS
Mountains, rockies, climb, expedition …No.9 Manaslu 8163
On April 29th, 2009 Radek Jaroš climbed on the top of the eighth highest mountain in the world – Manaslu 8163. 29. It was the first time he had gone for an expedition alone. It was also the first time he had been reliant only on his own energy, consideration and abilities. The original plan was supposed to be completely different. It was supposed to be an expedition of six Czech mountaineers. Finally everything ended another way.
The movie is Radek´s enunciation about a long journey to the summit of Manaslu, during which he had to overcome many obstacles. One of the greatest tests he had to undergo, was the inflammation of his tooth. As he said himself, it was one of the longest and most intensive pain he has ever experienced. He was thinking about the return many times during the expedition. Maybe that is also why he is recalling the unhappy events, which ended his expedition on K2 in 2007. Read the rest of this entry »
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29.4. – HIGH POINT EXPEDITION MANASLU 2009
29.4. – I open the tent and I have face full of snow right away. But I am able to walk. The show must go on. Imistake the stars for Russians. The Ice axe is on display after three hundred meters. At 7 400 m its getting slippy. The cable ends. This is the place the Italian guy fell. I try to remember the surroundings. I have to be back til dawn. The way down is easy but one cannot fall. The ice is as diamond. And its windy. But my clothes is working fine, so I am not cold.
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28.4. – HIGH POINT EXPEDITION MANASLU 2009
28.4. – I am building a tent at 7 000 m. It is lower than planned, but it is better to be carfull. The view of the next morning, when I see tents torn appart and the giant ice ring, I am happy for my choice. But I was not completly genial-I built the tent with the entrance pointing to the side the wind is comming from, so I have to sleep with all the holes closed, othervise I would sleep coverd in a snow. So I dont sleep at all, fearing of choking myself.
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RADEK JAROS SUMMIT MANASLU
Short satelite communication from Radek. 29th april 2009 at 12:00am Radek Jaros summit Manaslu – no oxygene.
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25.4. – HIGH POINT EXPEDITION MANASLU 2009
25.4.2009 BC – The nervosity is increasing. The Spanish gave a try for a top-they didnt even mention it. Toninght or tomorow I am leasing for CI or even CII. Now I am resting and waiting for the prediction- German guy said 28-29. the weather was supposed to be allright. It would be my birthday.
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21.4. – HIGH POINT EXPEDITION MANASLU 2009
21.4.2009 – CIII 6 900 m. We have had a terrible night last year in a same heigh on Dhaulagiri. But this time I was on my own. I had problem to stick one of sticks that hold the tent into the ice. There were just too much ice. The wind was so strong i was affraid the it would send me down. And it was turbiny, so I couldnt leave single hole open. The speep didnt come, and time to time i had to open the tent, becouse I was scared all the air was gone-and that ment the tent full of snow. Thats when I realised the things went bad. At 4am the snow broke inside, and filled most of the tent, the whorst think was-it blocked the exit, I couldnt get out! I held the tent with my body and prayed for the sun to come. Around 6am I have realised the sun was not gong to happen, so I started to cry for help, in russian and in english.
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20.4. – HIGH POINT EXPEDITION MANASLU 2009
19.4. 2009 The weather is grat, despote the new snow. And according to the predictions, there is gong to be some wind. But this is nat a hollyday, so I am gong to CI, Which is safe practically in any weather. Well, There are some steps in the snow, that end with broken ice, but I guess the one has been taught his lesson and came back safely. In CI there is suprise waiting. Only 30cm of my ten tis vissible. So it did snow. The way took me 3,5hr, but digging the tent another 2,5hours. Those things simply happen. In the morning I develope my natref for small tents. For next epedition, I am looping for digger tents. You sit there, deppressed, your shoulders are touching the walls, and the snow is falling into your clothes. And becouse of the snow I have removed, sun shines here with 2 hours delay. Thats why I leave as a last one…
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17.4. – HIGH POINT EXPEDITION MANASLU 2009
17.4. from BC – Contrary to all predictions its snowing outside today. It started yesterday afternoon, The sherpas have had a night service and they were removing the snow from the tents three times.. With horror I have noticed the similarity with my expedition Kalanke 2006. When 2 meters of snow appeared and the expedition was over.in the morning we were removing the snow again. For those two days here it has felt about 30 – 40 cm. How much on the top …?Still snowing. Not so intense, but snowing. Even if 3 days would be fine,I cannot do anything. The CI is teoretially approchable, but furher way might be dangerous becouse of wind.
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16.4. – HIGH POINT EXPEDITION MANASLU 2009
The last three days I was a little bussy. 13.4. from BC to CI and back to BC again. It is an excess 900 m, little cracks, but even if they are under snow,they dont seem to be dangerous. It has fallen about a meter of snow since we are here. It is really hard to tell if they are dangerous or not-As I have said, its a pretty scarry bussiness.I brought up the equipment for two camps and I have immediately set one tent. It will be an interesting chess game as the tents and camps will be moved. Still do not know if it will give three or four camps. Given that everything I carry must include clothing, food, gas, stoves, photography, filming … the bitch on my back is back pretty heavy. Therefore untill a CII I use a trausers and jacket from High Point only unlined, Lowa boots 6000, because they are lighter than the peak Lowa 8000, I have even I broughr back to life boots of aluminum and instead of carrying a thermos I have only plastic Enervit bottle. And I got more of those and I try not to misstake them because some are for iont drinks and the second ones for me not to have to leave the tent for blizzard 
))
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